《永遠的行走：與中國相遇》
引子
解說詞
有的人認為我瘋了，有道理。我的名字叫保羅?薩洛佩科，我受過專業的生物學訓練，我曾是一名經驗豐富的駐外記者，現在是《國家地理》的撰稿人和探險家。我不斷地在行走，從非洲出發，徒步走向南美洲的最南端——火地島。我的項目叫“永遠的行走”，是一個有關“慢下來”的旅程，花時間去傾聽、去學習，全情投入地去和人們交流。
Some people think I’m crazy. Fair enough. My name is Paul Salopek. I’m a biologist by training, a foreign correspondent through long experience. And a national geographic writer and explorer. I am walking continuously without breaks from Africa, all the way to the tip of South America, the place called Tierra Del Fuego. My project, called “The Forever Walk”, is a journey about slowing down, taking the time to listen, to learn, and to interact with humanity in the most immersive way possible.
我的目的是與人相遇。無論我遇見誰，這些沿途人們的日常生活，讓我窺見我們這個時代的重要議題。他們的故事構成一個意義豐富的鑲嵌藝術品，連接著我們所有人。
People are my destination. Regardless of who I encounter, it’s the daily lives of the individuals along my trail who offer windows into the big issues of our time. Their stories form a mosaic of meaning that can connect us all.
現在，我的旅程帶著我和我的當地徒步伙伴深入中國。我們將遇見誰？他們從哪里來？他們將到哪里去？一如既往，答案隨著我的步伐慢慢揭曉。
Now, my journey has taken me and my local walking partners deep into China. Who will we encounter? Where are they from and where are they going? The answers, as always, are revealed one footstep at a time.
實況
保羅：景色太美了，很少人能看到這樣的美景吧。
Paul: What a view! Not too many people get this view.
標題：永遠的行走：與中國相遇
The Forever Walk: China
岷江邂逅
Flow of Life
解說詞
我在徒步中學到了很多，其中之一是你無法輕視河流對于人類故事的重要性。從古代文明，到新文明，河流就像靜脈，承載著我們賴以生存的物質——水。就像時間，河流將我們的過去和現在帶入未知但共同的未來。
One of the many things I’ve learned on the walk, is that it’s hard to over-state the importance of rivers to the story of humankind. From old civilizations…To new civilizations…Rivers are like veins, carrying the lifeblood we all depend on: water. And like time itself, rivers also carry our past and our present into an unknown but shared future.
解說詞
自從踏入中國，我沿著胡煥庸線行走，它是一條穿越中國東部和西部的假想分界線，它將引導我跨越10個省市，行程6000多公里。現在，它帶我來到了四川省中部。
Since setting foot in the Middle Kingdom, I’ve been following the Hu-Line. It’s an imaginary boundary that divides east and west China, and it’ll steer me some 6000 kilometers across 10 provinces. Now it’s brought me into the heart of Sichuan.
實況
保羅·薩洛佩科 PAUL SALOPEK（國家地理 探險家 撰稿人 National Geographic Explorer and Writer）：眼睛閉起來，準備好了嗎？
李惠普：天啊。
保羅：你應該說：“啊”。
李惠普：要喘口氣。
保羅：把這個（毛巾）也弄濕。
李惠普：真的嗎？
保羅：是的，把這個（毛巾）弄濕，像這樣放在頭上，再把帽子戴上，阿拉伯人就是這么做的。這就像空調，一瞬間，你就感覺自己好像身處500美元一晚的高級酒店頂級套房里。
李惠普：但你知道，在中醫里。
保羅：這樣不好嗎？
李惠普：是的，不好。
李惠普：濕的頭發，然后你蓋著它，這樣會讓你頭疼。
保羅：真的嗎？
李惠普：你可能應該讓頭發干一點，再蓋上去。
Paul: Keep your eyes closed, keep your eyes closed. Okay, ready?
Huipu: Oh owww…
Paul: You should be saying ah!
Huipu: Want to breathe.
Paul: Yea yeah, so you wet this too.
Huipu: Oh really?
Paul: Yeah, wet this too and hang it on your head now like this.
Paul: Then put your hat on.
Paul: And this is what the Arabs do. It’s air conditioning. It’s like suddenly you feel like you’re inside of a 500-dollar suite on top of the Hilton hotel.
Huipu: But you know in Chinese medicine?
Paul: It’s bad?
Huipu: Yeah, it’s bad.
Paul: Ah.
Huipu: Wet hair and you cover it, that will give you a headache.
Paul: Really?
Huipu: Mmm.
Paul: Okay.
Huipu: You probably want to let it dry a little bit and then when it’s dry, put it down.
解說詞
加入此次行走的是一位新的徒步伙伴，32歲的教育工作者，李惠普。
Joining me on my journey is a new walking partner, 32-year-old educator Li Huipu.
采訪 李惠普 LI HUIPU（徒步伙伴 教育工作者 Walking Partner and Educator）
徒步提供我去了解自己的家鄉和周邊地區的機會。
我并不是一個熱衷運動的人，但自從去年，我認識了保羅，我們探討了一起徒步的可能性，我就一直在鍛煉，鍛煉更多地行走，但從來沒有像現在這樣一天徒步20公里。我感覺找到了自己的運動方式，我也擅長。
保羅：是的，你很擅長。
李惠普：我很擅長。
保羅：你很棒。
李惠普：我對此也非常驚訝。
Huipu: This walk is really an opportunity for me to get to know my hometown and regions around my hometown. I wasn't very a super like workout person before but ever since last year I met with Paul and talked about the possibility of me joining the walk, I've been practicing, you know, like practicing walking a little bit but never 20 kilometers per day in my life so that was something! And I think I found a sports for me. It’s kind of like I’m so good!
Paul: You’re good at it!
Huipu: I’m pretty good at this!
Paul: You’re good at it.
Huipu: I’m also amazed by it!
三星堆
解說詞
我們來到了古老岷江的河岸，它是長江最大的支流。1929年，一位農民在挖掘灌溉溝渠時挖出了一堆玉器。
We’ve come to the banks of the ancient Minjiang River - the largest tributary of the famed Yangtze - where in 1929, a farmer unearthed a cache of jade artifacts while digging an irrigation ditch.
三星堆考古現場
解說詞
他并不知道這些珍寶屬于三星堆，一個消失了的古文明，它大約與埃及法老圖坦卡蒙時代同時期興盛，長期以來，人們并不清楚它的起源、歷史和文化，現在不同了。
Little did he know that these treasures belonged to Sanxingdui, a lost civilization that flourished around the time of the Egyptian pharaoh Tutankhamun, their origins, history and culture have been hidden…Until now.
解說詞
趙昊博士是一位考古學者，帶領挖掘。他向我們介紹了至今一些最重要的考古發現。
Dr. Zhao Hao is one of the archaeologists leading the excavation. He sheds light on some of the most significant findings to date.
實況
趙昊 DR. ZHAO HAO（北京大學考古文博學院副教授 Archaeologist School of Archaeology and Museology, Peking University）：你可以看到這些深色的長的東西是象牙，它們被燃燒過了。
趙昊：當我們挖掘出所有的象牙，我們看到了一些陶瓷，我們認為它可能是陶瓷的容器，或者曾經是完整的容器，但被象牙壓碎成小塊了。還有一些玉器和青銅器，這三者都是非常重要和有趣的。所以，這里就是這些東西。這是小的人物形象。
保羅：這個看上去有多高？你覺得有多少厘米？
趙昊：大概30厘米，我指的是頭發。
保羅：僅僅是頭發。
趙昊：頭發是有作用的，因為兩只手之間有個空隙。
保羅：拿東西的？
李惠普：是的。
趙昊：這個人物很小，但你可以看到很多細節。
保羅：是的，很漂亮。
趙昊：像是指甲。
趙昊：你還可以看到這些。
保羅：關節。
趙昊：這些關節、指甲還有這個地方。
保羅：還有腕骨。
Dr. Zhao: You can see these dark long things are ivories. They have been burnt.
Dr. Zhao: When we put out all the ivories, we see some of the ceramic things. We think they are ceramic vessels or used to be complete ceramic vessels but they have been pressed into small pieces by the ivories. And there are also some jade artifacts and bronze artifacts. Three of them are very important and interesting. So they are these things. It’s Small figures.
Paul: How long are we looking at here? Like how many centimeters do you think?
Dr. Zhao: Around 30 centimeters. I mean the hair.
Paul: Oh god, the hair alone!
Dr. Zhao: The hair is functional because there is a gap between two hands.
Paul: Holders of something?
Huipu: Yeah exactly.
Dr. Zhao: This figure is very small but you can see many many details.
Paul: Yea, beautiful.
Dr. Zhao: Like the nail.
Dr. Zhao: and you can see these things.
Paul: Knuckles.
Dr. Zhao: These joints, nails and this part.
Paul: And the bone, the wrist bone.
解說詞
這是一個令人眼花繚亂的青銅時代文物寶庫，與以前在中國發現的任何文物都不同，也與以往任何時候看到的都不同，這些大多是從祭祀坑里挖掘出來的，它們分布在有倫敦希思羅機場那么大的古老城區里。
A dazzling trove of bronze age relics unlike anything previously found in China, and unlike anything ever seen, most hauled from a series of burn pits located inside a sprawling ancient urban area the size of London’s Heathrow Airport.
采訪 保羅·薩洛佩科 PAUL SALOPEK（國家地理 探險家 撰稿人 National Geographic Explorer and Writer）
親眼、實時看到考古學家把文物從地下挖出來，是非常難得的機會。它就像帶你搭上時光機，你的想象力被打開，你在想天哪，他們是怎么生活在這里的。他們穿什么？吃什么？是什么讓他們心疼？什么使他們歡笑？他們完全就像我們一樣。你可以讓他們坐在這個房間，我們沒有任何不同，唯一的問題可能是我們要努力去理解他們說了什么，但他們有著和我們一樣的情感。
Paul: Seeing archaeologists literally pulling things out of the ground in real time is a very rare privilege. It transports you, it’s like a time machine, your imagination is unlocked and you're thinking about my God how did they live here? What did they wear? What did they eat? What made their heart ache? You know, what made them laugh? They're exactly the same as us. You could sit them down in this room and you would have no difference except we'd have struggled to understand what they're saying but they would have exactly the same range of emotions.
解說詞
我希望研究員何曉歌能夠和我們分享她的一些挖掘經歷和見解，讓我們對這些發現有更好的理解。
I’m hoping researcher He Xiaoge can share some of her own experiences and insights at the dig to help make sense of these findings.
實況
保羅：當你拿起這些器物時，會有一些共鳴感嗎？有一種（古物在與你）低聲耳語的感覺嗎？
何曉歌 HE XIAOGE（北京大學考古文博學院博士生 Doctoral Student School of Archaeology and Museology, Peking University）：每次我們提取出來一個人頭，我們都會先把他抱起來，然后對著他的眼睛先看一下，就感覺在與古人對視，就感覺特別想問他三個終極問題：你是誰？你從哪里來？你到哪里去了？
保羅：天啊。這也是我會問的三個問題。
何曉歌：三星堆城可以分為幾個部分，其中城北發現了大型的建筑，可能是當時高級人的宮殿，然后還有一些治玉石器的作坊，可能是當時人世俗活動區。在那條馬目河之南，大多數學者都認為這是一個專門開辟的祭祀區。它應該是中間集中會有這幾個大坑，祭祀坑附近應該會有一座神廟，因為我們坑里發現了一些建筑遺存，學者就認為是神廟的遺存，這個神廟里面就陳列著我們坑里現在看到的所有的器物。
保羅：他們甚至會用寺廟的一部分來焚燒？
何曉歌：對，燒神廟那天應該是三星堆人最特別的一天吧。
Paul: When you pick up these things, do they echo something to you? Is there a whisper of this?
He: Every time we excavate a head, we always hold it up first and look into its eyes as if we are meeting an ancient person. I feel compelled to ask them the three ultimate questions. Who are you? Where are you from and where are you going?
Paul: Oh my gosh! Those are the three questions that I ask.
He: Sanxingdui can be divided into a few areas. To the north of the city, we discovered a large building that’s likely to have been a palace for the superiors. Then there are some workshops for making jade tools in what was probably a residential area. Then to the south of the Mamu river is what scholars believe to have been a dedicated sacrificial area with a number of big pits and there would have been a temple nearby because we uncovered structural remains in these pits which we believe are its remains. This temple held all the artifacts you see here.
Paul: Wow. So they're even taking apart their temples and burning them？
He: Yes, the day they burned the temple would have been a most significant day for the Sanxingdui people.
三星堆博物館
解說詞
在此之后，三星堆的所有跡象很快就消失了，盡管經過幾十年的挖掘、研究和資金投入，這些不同尋常的文物加深了制造這種精妙藝術的古人的神秘感。
All signs of Sanxingdui vanished soon thereafter. Despite decades of excavation, research and investment, the extraordinary relics only deepen the enigma of the mysterious people who made such sophisticated art.
實況
保羅：某個藝術家很好地把握了動物的精髓，有人一直在觀察這些鳥。非常棒的作品。
Paul: Certain artists are able to capture the spirit of an animal really well and somebody’s been looking at these birds. What a piece huh?
解說詞
他們為什么會拋棄這一切？一種假設是一場地震可能引發了災難性的山體滑坡，切斷了他們的主要水源岷江的通道，并將其轉移到一個新的地方，這可能促使人們放棄他們的城市，沿著這條河走到新的方向。
Why would they leave all of this behind? One hypothesis is that an earthquake may have triggered catastrophic landslides that cut off access to the Minjiang River – their main water source – and diverted it to a new location, this might have spurred the people to abandon their city and follow the river to its new course.
采訪 保羅
三星堆（文明）的消失很好地提醒了我，當我們需要生存時，用腿移動是最古老的生存方法之一。遷移不是問題，這可能是一個解決方案。
Paul interview: It's a good reminder for me, the collapse at Sanxingdui, about when we need to survive, using our legs to move is one of the oldest methods to survive. Migration is not a problem. It can be a solution.
四川
解說詞
我在四川中部，與我的徒步伙伴們一起穿越郁郁蔥蔥的農田，他們勇敢地面對著這里令人窒息的熱浪。
I’m in the middle of Sichuan, crossing lush farmlands with my walking partners, a motley caravan brave enough to face a stifling heatwave in the province.
實況
女士1：你們要不要生黃瓜？
李惠普：一人一根。
羅新：一人一根。
保羅：一根就夠了，這個很重。
保羅：一個。
李惠普：保羅，拿一根。
保羅：謝謝。
保羅：再拿一根，謝謝，謝謝你。
羅新：謝謝你。
李惠普：謝謝。
女士2：不用謝。
Lady 1: Do you guys want some cucumbers?
Huipu: Just one each.
Prifessor Luo: Just one each.
Paul: Just one because they’re heavy you know.
Paul: Just one.
Huipu: Paul, take one.
Paul: Thank you.
Paul: Take one more. Thank you. Thank you.
Professor Luo: Thank you.
Huipu: Thank you.
Lady 2: You are welcome.
解說詞
時不時地會有專家加入我的旅程，他們為我的故事帶來的深度思考和歷史背景充實了我的故事內容。北京大學的羅新教授就是其中之一。
Every now and then, specialists join me on my journey, providing depth and context to the history that underpins my storytelling. Professor Luo Xin from Peking University is one of them.
采訪 保羅·薩洛佩科 PAUL SALOPEK（國家地理 探險家 撰稿人 National Geographic Explorer and Writer）
我的這一段徒步非常特殊的一點，相比之前在中國、在全世界的徒步，是能和一個世界級的歷史學者一起行走。羅新教授仿佛是一本中國歷史的百科全書，難能可貴的是他既是知識分子、學者和深刻的思考者，而且擁有強健的體魄。他完全能跟上徒步的節奏，事實上，他經常整天都走在最前面。
Paul interview: What's been really special about this section of the walk - not just in China, but across the world - is walking with a world leader in historical knowledge, and Professor Luo is an encyclopedia of information about the history of China. He's this very rare combination of an intellectual, an academic, a deep thinker with a very athletic body. I mean he has no trouble keeping up. In fact he's often leading during the day.
實況
羅新：鄉村小道讓你的鞋子很燙對嗎？
保羅：是的，你的腳也很熱，然后你就會起水泡。
Professor Luo: The country road, they make your shoes hot right?
Paul: Yes, makes your feet hot too. That’s how you get blisters.
采訪 羅新 PROF. LUO XIN （作家 歷史學家 北京大學中國古代史研究中心 Author and Historian Research Center of Ancient Chinese History, Peking University）
我當然得有好多期待才會來。我雖然知道他開始這段旅程，我知道已經有差不多8年時間了，他一出發不久我就知道了，而且我也在我自己寫的書里面也介紹他，而且他的旅行也是我自己曾經的長途旅行的一個動力。我從北京走到（內蒙古）正藍旗跟他的旅行比起來，就像后花園里的閑庭信步，但是我用我這一段信步向他致敬，我在書里面就這樣寫的。
Professor Luo interview: I’ve been anticipating this trip. I’ve known about this walk for 8 or 9 years, so not long after he started and I introduced him in my book. His journey motivated me into doing a long walk of my own. My walk from Beijing to Zhenglan Banner (Inner Mongolia) is like a leisurely stroll in the back garden compared to his, but this walk of mine was a salute to him. That’s what I wrote in the book.
解說詞
沿著岷江行走，我發現縱觀中國歷史，河流承載著一種近乎神話的特質，介于人與神話想象之間，它們是幾個世紀以來中國詩歌、藝術、文學、民間傳說和哲學的主題。
Tracing the Minjiang River, I learn that throughout Chinese history, rivers carried an almost mythical quality - something between the human and the divine, they are subjects of centuries of Chinese poetry, art, literature, folklore and philosophy.
實況
羅新：非常舒服，試一下。
Professor Luo: Ah, it’s nice! Try!
采訪 羅新
我們作為現代人，因為我們打開水龍頭就有水，我們總是意識不到水是很有限的，也意識不到水的重要性。我覺得跟著保羅這樣走路，跟他一起聊天，討論今天我們看到的世界，以及遙遠的古代人。在這個時候，我們才會比較真切地意識到那些人類所面對的那些水的問題。
Professor Luo interview: As modern people, we turn on the tap and there's water, so we don't always realize water is actually limited and how important it is. Walking with Paul, talking with him about the world we see today and the people from the ancient past, we become more aware of the water problems that humans face.
解說詞
水是有限的資源，只有合理利用才能夠再生。沿著先人的足跡，我們很快就發現了一個非常棒的案例。
Water is a finite resource and only renewable if well managed. Following in the footsteps of our ancient predecessors, we soon find a prime example.
許多古老的寺廟在河流的兩岸扎根，過去很多人都會去祈禱頻繁的洪水不要破壞四川盆地上的這塊土地。但其實這些困擾他們的水，同樣也造福他們。
A wealth of old temples have taken root along the river banks, where many have prayed for relief from the frequent floods devastating this region of the Sichuan basin. Unbeknownst to them, these very waters that plagued them… would end up being their salvation.
四川 都江堰
解說詞
都江堰是四川省的一個城市，以這里的一個地標命名，一個在公元前三世紀建造的灌溉系統，至今仍在使用。
Dujiangyan is a city in Sichuan province named after its famed landmark, an irrigation system built in the third century BC, that’s still in operation today.
伏龍觀
實況
李惠普：這個向你展示了整個灌溉系統的結構。
羅新：是的，這個很棒。這里有個結構點。
保羅：這是什么？
李惠普：這個叫魚嘴。
李惠普：這個是外河，這個是內河，內河通往成都。
李惠普：所以原理就是分流河流，不讓所有的水都流入成都。這是第一個改道裝置。一路過去，你會看到飛沙堰。因為這里有一個小的角度，就可以把河流里的沙土和石頭過濾到外河。
Huipu: So this shows you like the whole structure of the irrigation system.
Professor Luo: Yeah, this is good. Here is the point.
Paul: That’s it?
Huipu: This is called like the “Fish Mouth”. This is outside river, this is like inner river. The inner river actually goes through Chengdu, right?
Huipu: So the idea is that you probably want to split the water so that not all the water will flood into Chengdu. So this is the first diversion. And all the way over here you will have something called Fei Sha Yan because there is like a little angle here, right? And you will have this to filter a lot of the sand and stone into the outer river.
李惠普：這里就是寶瓶口了。
保羅：非常漂亮。
李惠普：是的。
李惠普：一旦有大量的水涌入，漩渦會幫助啟動過濾的功能，因為這樣就能夠過濾掉。
保羅：泥沙。
羅新：清理泥沙。
李惠普：因為是像這樣運作的。
Huipu: And over here you have one last piece, it’s called “Bottleneck”.
Paul: Wow! Very beautiful.
Huipu: Yeah.
Huipu: Once there is a huge volume of water flood in, the whirlpools actually help to activate the function of the filter because right, in this way it’s actually filtering out the…
Paul: The silt.
Professor Luo: Cleaning the sand.
Huipu: Because it goes like this.
解說詞
這個龐大的早期水利工程不僅在地形利用上令人印象深刻，而且在巧妙的建造上也令人驚嘆。
This colossal early water project is not just impressive in the way it takes advantage of the topography, but also in its ingenious construction.
實況
羅新：過去，他們把竹籃里裝滿石塊，并把一個個竹籃排在一起建造了這個。在中國南部其他地方，你還能看見這樣的結構。和你在某一篇文章里提到的技術一樣，中亞的百姓引導羚羊朝著他們想要的方向，進入陷阱。
李惠普：是的。
保羅：那是一種柔性解決方法。
李惠普和羅新：是的。
Professor Luo: In the past time, they made this with the bamboo basket full of rocks. They put one by one together to build this. In other parts, in Southern China, you can still see the structures. The same technology you mentioned in your articles - one of your articles – that the people in Central Asia that they guide the antelopes in the direction they want it to the trap.
Huipu: Yeah.
Paul: It’s more kind of a soft energy solution.
Huipu and Professor Luo: Yeah yeah.
解說詞
它很好地詮釋了中國的一句格言：天下莫柔弱于水,而攻堅強者莫之能先。柔軟戰勝堅硬，溫和戰勝剛強。
It really puts into perspective the Chinese adage: ‘nothing in the world is as soft and yielding as water. Yet for dissolving the hard and inflexible, nothing can surpass it. The soft overcomes the hard, the gentle overcomes the rigid.’
引水入田，都江堰不僅阻止了洪水，且為糧食的生產提供源源不斷的灌溉，逐漸打開了黃金時代的大門。
By corralling the river, Dujiangyan prevented floods and provided consistent irrigation for food production. And in the process, opened up the doors to a golden age.
采訪 羅新 PROF. LUO XIN （作家 歷史學家 北京大學中國古代史研究中心 Author and Historian Research Center of Ancient Chinese History, Peking University）
我們已經一直都在河邊上，無論怎么繞來繞去都是總會走到一條大水渠邊上。這些水渠我們也都去摸過了，碰過了。岷江來的這些水都像雪水一樣，都是冰的。水流這么急，因為饑渴的成都平原在呼喚它們，它們都在往那邊沖過去，對吧？從西向東沖過去。沒有它們，就沒有我們今天所知的成都平原。所以這個重要性真的是不容易夸大，怎么說都不容易夸大。
Professor Luo interview: We have been walking along rivers this whole time and no matter the route we always come across a large waterway. We’ve touched these waters from the Minjiang river and it’s cold like snow, rushing past because the hungry plains of Chengdu is beckoning them to rush from west to east. Without them the Chengdu plains we know today wouldn’t exist. So the importance of this is really not an exaggeration. You cannot overstate its importance.
采訪 保羅·薩洛佩科 PAUL SALOPEK（國家地理 探險家 撰稿人 National Geographic Explorer and Writer）
我穿越過許多河流，也沿著許多河流行走，我發現河流仿佛是自然景觀的傳記作家。岷江，從時間的緯度上來看仿佛一條美麗的時間河流，時間也如河流一般流淌。石器時代第一批走過這里的人，一直到現在擁有2000多萬人口、高樓林立的現代都市，成都。河流講述著發生在中國四川盆地這片區域人類綿延發展的故事。
Paul interview: I've crossed many many rivers and I've walked along many rivers. And what I found is that rivers are biographers of landscape. So the Minjiang is a beautiful river for time, for thinking about time, how time flows back from the stone age the first people who walked through this part of China all the way up to the modern gleaming steel and glass city of Chengdu of 20 plus million people, the entire continuity of the human story and that part in the Sichuan basin of China can be told by that river.
